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Restaurant Review: Cicada Restaurant

 

Feel like Brangelina for an evening…

This natty former men’s haberdashery in the old Oviatt building downtown served as the set for Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s explosive pas de deux in the movie, “Mr. and Mrs. Smith.”

When not making screen cameos, Cicada serves up flavorful and inventive Italian dishes in a gorgeous art deco space paneled in dark woods, gold leaf, and an unholy amount of Lalique glass from the original 1920’s construction.

Decadent appetizers like the tiger shrimp stuffed with lump crab and served with caviar sauce are followed by an array of light salads, including a simple artichoke heart salad with lemon dressing and parmesan shavings.

Go ahead and commit the ultimate Los Angeles carb-conscious no-no by splurging on a pasta dish for the main course. The lobster linguine with fresh tomatoes and parsley is both light and satisfying. For those of you who just can’t leave Atkins behind, Cicada’s fish and meat dishes has options for everyone to savor, like the simple filet of Dover sole with beurre blanc (on the side, of course). After your meal, settle in upstairs at the swanky bar where the list of liqueurs reads like the bible for grappa and port enthusiasts. Plus, you can even feel “cultured” by taking the complimentary shuttle service to the Los Angeles Music Center for an evening’s performance before or after dinner.

-- Eric Rosen for LA.com

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