BY NATALIE HAUGHTON >FOOD EDITOR

The beautifully designed Fraiche - with wood floors, high ceilings, French doors across the front, an open kitchen and inviting terrace - is one of the newer kids on Culver City's burgeoning restaurant block. The Culver Boulevard establishment offers Mediterranean-California inspired fare.

If you're seated at one of the tables for two - there are several along one long wall - one diner can watch the kitchen staff constantly in motion, but unfortunately the other stares at a blank wall and misses out on the view. Mirrors would help.

On a recent Saturday night, a greeting at the door by a sullen hostess and manager for an early seating was less than inviting.

However, the server was cordial and accommodating. Glancing through the menu, various dishes seemed to have overtones of Italian, French or California throughout - with some reminiscent of bistro fare. We liked the white linen tablecloths.

A country Italian ribolitta soup special ($6) was a good starter choice for warming up on a cold night. The melange of bread cubes (which soften, fall apart and soak up the broth), assorted root vegetables and Tuscan kale was wonderfully seasoned - and delightful.

Although the baby beet, hazelnut, mache and house-made ricotta appetizer ($10) - really a salad - sounded appealing and the flavor combination tasted good, the striped candy cane beets looked as though much of the color had cooked out of them.

Raviolis stuffed with a braised short rib, taleggio cheese and Tuscan kale filling ($13) and topped with a rosemary-infused butter sauce were delicious, rich and a lovely assemblage.

From the eight entree selections, a kurobuta pork chop ($25) was thick and juicy and served with baby brussels sprouts, a tasty Romanesco sauce (made with red peppers, tomatoes, almonds and garlic) and polenta with cheese. But overall, it lacked pizazz in presentation and flavor.

The large portion of monkfish "francaise" ($24) was a pleasant surprise, the fish fork-tender and terrific. Thinly coated with an egg wash and very lightly dusted with flour, the fish pieces were sauteed in lemon-parsley butter until golden, the sauce then jazzed up with a splash of white wine, all served on a bed of potato puree with sauteed spinach.

Menu descriptions of two desserts sounded more enticing than either tasted. The carrot cake ($8), molded in a small round and topped with a cream cheese frosting, came attractively presented on a colorful orange rectangular plate with a swirl of carrot puree and an oval scoop of pineapple sorbet. But the carrot cake was not exceptional. The sorbet was the best part, with good intense flavor.

A hand-pulled apple strudel ($8) plated with creme anglaise and rum raisin ice cream sounded promising, but turned out to be mostly a white palette of food on a white plate - and didn't deliver. The strudel, with piles of thinly sliced apples, lacked flavor and could have used a good dose of spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.)

As good as the place looks, the food doesn't quite measure up.

At its best: Attractively designed restaurant with white linen tablecloths offers a variety of interesting menu choices - some better than others - featuring market fresh ingredients. Prices seem more reasonable than other restaurants of this kind.

Could be better: More welcoming and cheerful hosts who seem excited about the place. Food could use more pizazz both in presentation and flavor. Tables for two are far too close - conversations are public, private ones are impossible.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692 natalie.haughton@dailynews.com

FRAICHE

>Details: 9411 Culver Blvd., Culver City, lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday through Sunday 5:30 to 10:30p.m.; bar and lounge open late-night with bar menu served until midnight. (310) 839-6800, www.fraicherestaurantla.com
>Cost: Appetizers $6 to $13, salumi and charcuterie $6 to $25, fruits de mer $13 to $98, pasta $11 to $14, entrees $22 to $26, desserts $8 to $10, cheese $12 to $15.
>Noteworthy: Two-hour free parking in lot around the corner behind the restaurant. Corkage fee $15 for first bottle, $25 for second (two bottle max). 25 to 30 wines available by the glass.