BY LARRY LIPSON >RESTAURANT CRITIC

On Friday and Saturday nights - when the band plays, diners dance and a belly dancer wiggles - the new Mirage in Encino bustles with eating, drinking and joyful activity.

The building, previously occupied by Capriccio, a full-service Italian ristorante, sits on the north side of Ventura Boulevard adjacent a small park. The location was also once the site of a Hamburger Hamlet offshoot called the Downtown Grill and was for quite a while known as Stratton's.

Now it has changed character again, this time serving Lebanese fare. At least half a million dollars has been spent on its interior remodeling.

With its exotic-looking dining room, the spacious Mirage sends forth better-than-average food at moderate prices from its busy kitchen.

Most diners, some at long angled tables holding large, festive parties, nibble tidbits from heaping platters of cold and hot appetizers, simply termed "mezzah."

One recent weekend night, we ordered two types of kebbeh (ground lean beef). One is raw, called "nayeh" ($10.95), the spreadable-on-pita Lebanese version of steak tartare that's lengthened with bulgur and spiced effectively; the other listed as kebbeh balls (four for $6.95), mixed with onions and pistachios and cooked until crunchy.

We munched house-baked turnovers stuffed with spinach or cheese called "fatayer" ($6.50) and slathered warm, freshly baked pita bread with an eggplant, garlic, peppers, pine nut, walnut creation called "makdous" ($6.95).

We joyously noshed familiar Middle Eastern goodies from a vegetarian plate ($12.95) that contained tahini-laced hummus and baba ghanoush dips, crispy falafel, stuffed grape leaves and refreshing tabbouleh salad.

Lamb chops ($23.95) may not be the very best I've ever had, but they're certainly meaty and flavorful. And with the automatic pita bread, salad and wedge-cut Yukon fries (or rice) accompaniments, it's definitely enough to satisfy the hungriest.

First-time kebab fanciers here are best served by the combo plate ($17.95) of shish kebab, chicken kebab and kafta (seasoned ground beef) kebab.

There's also a savory, homey baby lamb shanks dish ($14.95) cooked with potatoes and vegetables, accompanied by basmati rice. Plenty to eat, for sure.

Untried are a trio of whole fish opportunities at market price (up to $40), two steak entrees and a couple of pasta plates.

The kitchen also produces soups, salads, sandwiches and a half-dozen desserts that include, of course, baklava ($4.50).

At its best: Mirage brings a lively Middle Eastern touch at acceptable prices to the middle area of the Valley's major restaurant thoroughfare.

Could be better: There are some good Lebanese wines available that one would expect to be stocked here. If not many, at least a couple of them would make sense being on the Mirage's wine list.

review>

MIRAGE

>Rating:

>Details: 16925 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Live entertainment Friday and Saturday night. (818) 788-9800. www.mirageencino.com

>Cost: Starters from $5 to $10; pastas and entrees from $13 to $24; desserts, $4.50 or $5.50; corkage, $20.

>Noteworthy: An assortment of eight appetizers (minimum two persons) titled the Mirage Mezzah ($29.95) should satisfy those who love small bites and sharing.