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Sonoma GuideThe best hotels, restaurants, spas, wineries and more in Sonoma County BY ERIC ROSEN >LA.COM When most people think of Sonoma Hotels Lodge At Sonoma 1325 Broadway Sonoma, CA 95476 (707) 935-6600 www.thelodgeatsonoma.com About a mile south of Sonoma Plaza, the Lodge at Sonoma is a great home base for exploring the town of Sonoma and the prestigious wineries of nearby Carneros. The resort is laid out like a little Spanish village dotted with cottages and indigenous landscaping, with four guest rooms per cottage. Try to get an upstairs room if you can so that you have a little view of the property from your private balcony. Rooms are equipped with fireplaces, a little living room sitting area, huge wooden-shuttered windows and fluffy king or double beds. Just through a shuttered archway from the bedroom is a huge soaking tub and vanity sink. The hotel caters to many business travelers, so the entertainment center is a virtual multi-media extravaganza where you can hook up all your gadgets and create your own personal movie theater or concert hall. There are also 22,000 square feet of meeting rooms and the largest ballroom in Sonoma. Visit the pool just adjacent to the lobby to catch some sun at the end of the day, or head to the recently renovated Raindance Spa at the other end of the property from the lobby. Raindance is a small, secluded oasis in the resort complex with indoor and outdoor relaxation areas, a soaking pool and a variety of sumptuous treatments that use wine country ingredients like the grape seed antioxidant facial. There is Starbucks coffee available in the lobby in the morning, and complimentary wine tastings on Friday afternoons, as well as every day at the Cellar Door Tasting Room on the property. The hotel is also home to the wonderful Carneros Bistro (see review in Restaurants section). Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn 100 Boyes Blvd. Sonoma, CA 95476 707-938-9000 www.fairmont.com/sonoma  The grande dame of Sonoma hotels, the imposingly pink Sonoma Mission Inn has been around since 1927. Since being taken over by Fairmont, it has undergone a beautiful renovation and the rooms, while still decorated in California colonial style, have all the modern amenities including luxurious beds, humongous bathrooms, techno-friendly gadgets like an iPod dock, and beautiful grounds. You won’t be spending much time in your room though. The Mission Inn offers daily hikes and bike tours around Sonoma, but its location is also very close to some great wineries, and right off the Sonoma Highway, so you can get up to the little towns of Glen Ellen or Kenwood within minutes. The hotel restaurant, Santé is a lovely Spanish-style dining room with an elegant menu of California cuisine, and the hotel’s outdoor pool is beautifully landscaped and fully sunned for the entire day. The hotel also houses a gorgeous 40,000 square-foot, self-contained spa that takes advantage of onsite natural underground hot springs, and also contains a deluxe fitness center. There are several outdoor mineral soaking pools in which you can have a “bathing ritual,” or just lounge in one of the cabanas. Some spa-goers might be put off by the co-ed Bathhouse, where you can find the saunas and steam rooms but the locker rooms are single sex only, and all treatments are done in private facilities. One of the most fun parts of staying at the Mission Inn comes after dark when the staff lights the bonfire pit outside the front entrance, and guests can buy a kit with all the necessary accoutrements to make their own ’smores while sipping a last glass of wine or bubbly. Gaige House Inn 13540 Arnold Drive Glen Ellen, CA 95442 (707) 935-0237 www.gaige.com Gaige House is hands down the hippest place to stay in Sonoma. It was built in 1900, and after a checkered career as a private home, schoolhouse and bed and breakfast, it was converted by the Thompson Group into one of its signature modern-style properties. With just twenty-three rooms and suites, Gaige House feels like a cross between a West Village townhouse and a country inn. Because it is nestled into a little bend in the road in the tiny town of Glen Ellen, Gaige takes advantage of its seclusion to give its guests the feeling of casual exclusivity and well-tended tranquility (plus, you won’t see any kids running about, so it’s a great getaway). Bellboys greet you when you pull up and take everything in hand as you are checked in, given a quick tour of the property (along with fresh homemade cookies and cool spring water, which are always available in the parlor), and shown to your room. There are ten standard rooms with king and queen beds in the main house, as well as thirteen standalone “spa suites” designed by Paul Davis. The largest is the 715-square-foot Zen Suite surrounded by bamboo-plantings and complete with a king bed, granite soaking tub, showers for two, fireplace and flat screen TV, as well as an interior glassed-in atrium and a patio to lounge on while taking in the outdoors. The inn’s little pool is lined with brick walkways and lush green grass, and there is a swing seat in which you can cuddle up with your partner and take in the view of trickling Sonoma Creek and the sun setting over the mountains. Or choose to just while away the afternoon with an in-room spa treatment. Gaige House is also close to all Glen Ellen’s excellent restaurants, and minutes from some of the best wineries in Sonoma, as well as Jack London State Park. For $15, you can also get an outstanding gourmet breakfast with a new menu each morning. Other Hotels: Bungalows 313 313 First St. East Sonoma, CA (707) 996-8091 www.bungalows313.com Providing a more private, intimate guest experience, this little boutique inn is about a block from Sonoma Plaza and features private bungalows surrounding a central courtyard. Each of the seven spacious bungalows is furnished with Italian linens, Aveda toiletries, private outdoor patios, and an in-room gourmet breakfast. With summer rates starting at $219, it’s a great deal. Carneros Inn 4048 Sonoma Hwy. Napa, CA 94559 (707) 299-4900 www.thecarnerosinn.com Right on the Sonoma Highway in the heart of the productive Carneros region, which straddles Sonoma and Napa counties, the Carneros Inn is the last word in understated luxury. Its bungalow-style rooms and suites are laid out like an Old West settler town—albeit a really fancy, expensive settler town—and each room guarantees total privacy. The new plantings in the landscaping are still a little sparse, and the walkways could be better marked, but with three great places to eat, a gorgeous pool area, and proximity to some of the finest wineries in California, the Carneros Inn is a truly wonderful hotel to experience all Sonoma has to offer. El Dorado Hotel 405 First St. West Sonoma, CA (707) 996-3220 www.eldoradosonoma.com  We can’t all stay at the fancy hotels listed here, but that doesn’t mean we should give up luxury and convenience, does it? For those of us whose wallets are scant but whose tastes are rich, the El Dorado Hotel on Sonoma Plaza is a great boutique budget option that operates several environmental initiatives and offers rooms at under $200 a night. Sure, there aren’t so many frills, but each of the 23 guest rooms has French doors that open onto private balconies, a four-poster bed with a down duvet, private bathroom, flat screen TV, CD and DVD player, cordless telephone and mini-fridge. There are also four separate bungalows near the small pool. The hotel is also home to the fabulous El Dorado Kitchen restaurant (see review), and the lobby café is the perfect spot to grab a breakfast in the morning before setting off to explore the town. Glen Ellen Inn Cottages 13670 Arnold Dr. Glen Ellen, CA (707) 996-6409 www.glenelleninn.com  Known as the “Secret Cottages,” these charming little guest bungalows are hidden behind the Glen Ellen Inn Restaurant, right in the town of Glen Ellen, and overlooking Sonoma Creek. Each cottage has a queen bed, a fireplace, Jacuzzi tub, A/C, TV, mini bar and deck. At just $149 a night, these rooms might not be the most deluxe option around, but they are spacious, well appointed, and a romantic spot to spend a weekend. Inn at Sonoma 630 Broadway Sonoma, CA (707) 939-1340 www.innatsonoma.com A charming mix of B&B and boutique hotel, the Inn at Sonoma is close to the center of town, and offers guestrooms starting at $165. You won’t find anything out-of-this world at the hotel, but the rooms all have queen or king beds, gas fireplaces, TV/DVD combos, and include a full breakfast. Kenwood Inn 10400 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood, CA (707) 833-1293 www.kenwoodinn.com  If you’re looking for quiet comfort and luxury, look no further. The Kenwood Inn and Spa is the place for you…that is, if you’re willing to pay at least $400 for a room in summer. Then again, it’s worth it for one of the twenty-nine guestrooms and suites, which come with individualized Italian furnishings, featherbeds, Italian linens, fireplaces, full bathrooms, private entrances and a complimentary breakfast. Like staying in your own private wine country villa, the charming Kenwood Inn is guaranteed to be a memorable experience. Ledson Hotel 480 First St. East Sonoma, CA (707) 996-9779 www.ledsonhotel.com This little hotel operated by the Ledson Winery is just across Sonoma Plaza from the El Dorado, and is decorated in a sort of antique California Victorian style with beautiful glass chandeliers and detailed wood-carved furniture. With rates starting at $350, it’s a bit pricey, but each of the only six guestrooms comes with a king-sized bed, whirlpool tub and shower, marble bathroom, fireplace and balcony, and free internet access. The service is individualized and complete, and the downstairs lounge is a great spot to see and be seen in town. MacArthur Place 29 E. MacArthur St. Sonoma, CA (707) 938-2929 www.macarthurplace.com Another luxurious historic inn, MacArthur Place is all about discreet indulgence and sybaritic enjoyment. Victorian-style cottages are laid out among beautifully manicured flower gardens and paths, and the shimmering little pool is a lovely spot to take in the sun. The large, country-style rooms will set you back starting at $350 in summer, but how can you put a price on getting away from it all? Sonoma Hotel 110 W. Spain St. Sonoma, CA (800) 468-6016 www.sonomahotel.com  Another small hotel (with only sixteen rooms), the historic Sonoma Hotel (it was built in 1880) is perfectly situated right on the corner of Sonoma Plaza, and close to all the town’s attractions, as well as to the Sonoma Highway on the way to Glen Ellen and Kenwood. Like the Girl and the Fig restaurant it houses, the hotel is decorated in French country style, but with all modern amenities, and with rates starting at $110, it’s a great option for those looking to save their money to splurge on food and wine. Sonoma Creek Inn 239 Boyes Blvd. Sonoma, CA (707) 939-9463 www.sonomacreekinn.com A few minutes outside of town near the Fairmont Mission Inn, this little Western-style inn is a good, affordable option for budget travelers. Though they don’t have too many fancy amenities, each of the sixteen rooms has a queen bed, heat and A/C, refrigerators, fans and cable TV. Many also have their own private patio. Starting at just $129 a night in summer, the Sonoma Creek in is a great deal. Sonoma Restaurants Carneros Bistro and Wine Bar at the Lodge at Sonoma 1325 Broadway Sonoma, CA 95476 (707) 935-6600 www.carnerosbistro.com  Right next to the lobby of the Lodge at Sonoma, the Carneros Bistro offers a varied, innovative menu created by Chef Janine Falvo. The crispy crab hushpuppies with chipotle-malt vinegar aioli are a delightful cross between carnival food and an amuse bouche. Another great option is the Three Bites appetizer where you get to try three little special appetizer portions for an eclectic mix of flavors. There is also an entire section of the menu devoted to seafood appetizers including oysters, mussels, scallops and Ahi tartar. For an entrée, the midnight mac & cheese with hedgehog mushrooms and a porcini is a popular dish, as is the signature sea bass with decadent lobster home fries and an earthy but tangy truffled hollandaise. The juicy Berkshire pork chop with cabbage-potato pierogi and braised bacon is also tantalizing. Think about trying some of the artisanal cheeses on order, like the Purple Haze chèvre, which incorporates lavender and fennel pollen for a light herbal flavor, before hitting the dessert menu whose choices include a lemon-herb crème brulee, profiteroles and caramelized apple crepes. One of the best things about the menu is Wine Steward Christopher Sawyer’s wine flights—especially for us indecisive food critics. Each flight comes with three generous pours of a certain varietal (we recommend the excellent Pinot Noir) for under $20, with descriptions of each wine and pairing suggestions. Better yet, try a few different flights and compare tastes with your dinner date. El Dorado Kitchen 405 First St. West Sonoma, CA 94576 (707) 996-3030 www.eldoradosonoma.com Sharing its name with the hotel where it is located, El Dorado Kitchen (or EDK, as the locals call it) is a sophisticated contemporary setting in which to enjoy superb California cuisine. Take a chance and have a seat at the 21-foot-long communal table that was made from a single plank of wood reclaimed from a bridge in Vermont. If the dramatic interior is too urban for you, try a seat out in the beautiful poolside courtyard under twinkling lights strung in the fig trees. Chef Justin Everett describes his menu as “farm driven,” and you can see why when you take a look at the various “assortments” he offers as appetizers, like the homemade charcuterie plate with pâté de campagne, fennel sausage, cured meats and seasonal marmalade. For something less filling, try the finger-licking crispy fried organic summer squash with Japanese eggplant, Portobello mushroom, tomato marmalade and basil aioli. Salads include one made with arugula and crescenza, frisee, garbanzo beans, pickled red onion and preserved lemon vinaigrette. There is also a warm artichoke tart with arugula, olive, fennel and garlic confit. Everett’s gazpacho comes with tiger prawns, manilla clams, avocado, cucumber, sweet peppers and garlic crostini. You can also get a juicy steak and truffle fries, steamed mussels in creamy sauvignon blanc broth with tarragon, lamb with a summer bean cassoulet, or English pea agnolotti. Be sure to try one of the creative desserts, like the “peaches and cream,” which is an almond cake, honey tuile, peach yogurt panna cotta, white wine poached peaches and almond nougatine. The chocolate sea salt cake with white chocolate chips, vanilla anglaise, raspberry sauce and vanilla ice cream is a sumptuous mix of sweet and tart. Glen Ellen Inn 13670 Arnold Drive. Glen Ellen, CA 95442 (707) 996-6409 www.glenelleninn.com  Ask anyone in Glen Ellen where you should go for a nice dinner, and their first response will be the Glen Ellen Inn. Smack dab in the center of town—if you can find a “center” to this tiny village—the Glen Ellen Inn serves up a menu of simple, fresh fare in a beautiful garden setting with a view of Sonoma Creek. Start your meal with a selection from their famous oyster menu, and a cocktail from the bar (there’s plenty of time for wine with the meal, so be sure to take a look at their impressive menu). Their dishes are not the most innovative in Sonoma, but the quality is very high, and you can find starters like figs in a blanket with spinach, arugula, figs, chèvre and walnuts in a chilled crepe drizzled with port dressing. The ginger tempura calamari with grilled pineapple salsa and lemon aioli is a good appetizer choice, as is the Buffalo mozzarella purse served with basil pesto over tomato coulis. On the main course menu, you can find options like the seared sea scallops with ginger passion fruit cream, a rosemary rubbed filet mignon, and a duck breast stuffed with foie gras and crusted with herbed panko. Ask what the daily specials are, though, since they are often a little more interesting than the normal menu items and might catch your attention. Dessert offers choices like the “haute chocolate,” which is chocolate-chili ice cream, fresh brownie and merinque in chocolate port sauce; and a pecan spice bread pudding with a chocolate lava center, brandy sauce and espresso ice cream. Market at the Carneros Inn 4048 Sonoma Hwy. Napa, CA 94559 (707) 299-4900  Market is exactly what it says, a market. You can find everything from first aid to fabulous foodstuffs here, but we love it because it’s a perfect spot to grab a quick bite while touring the wineries of Carneros. Granted, you have to navigate the circuitous, narrow and often unmarked drives of the Carneros Inn to get there, but once you do, you can find all sorts of sandwiches, salads and wraps to enjoy, not to mention a plethora of non-wine beverages and sweet treats. It’s also a great little spot to pick up some souvenirs for needy friends back home—wine bottle pouch anyone? The best thing bout Market might just be the shaded outdoor lounge and activity area right outside where you can first scarf your food then work it off with an energetic round of shuffleboard. Other Restaurants: Boonfly Café at the Carneros Inn 4048 Sonoma Hwy. Napa, CA 94559 (707) 299-4870 The casual sit-down dining option at the Carneros Inn, Boonfly is housed in a cute little red-barn-like building where the mood is always festive and the food is always tasty. It’s also a convenient spot to keep in mind since you can grab breakfast, lunch or dinner here. The no-nonsense menu is very moderately priced with almost all dinner entrees under $20, and the variety of huge gourmet lunch sandwiches are an even better deal. Café Citti 9049 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood, CA (707) 833-2690 A cozy, romantic little restaurant owned and operated by Luca and Linda Citti, Café Citti feels like a rustic Italian eatery where everyone knows everyone, and the ambiance is about casual enjoyment. Besides the “create your own pasta” menu, the long list of specials is handwritten daily and posted by the kitchen. Café La Haye 140 E. Napa St. Sonoma, CA (707) 935-5994 www.cafelahaye.com  Tucked into a quiet spot of Napa Street, just off Sonoma Plaza, Café La Haye is a town favorite, and recommended by just about everyone you meet in Sonoma. The menu, like the minimalist-decorated restaurant itself, may be small and simple, but everything is fresh, flavorful and masterfully made from the best produce in California. The wine list is also pretty impressive too. Doce Lunas 8910 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood, CA (707) 833-4000 A charming little fusion spot right off the Sonoma Highway in Kenwood, Doce Lunas is a crowd (and crowded) favorite for locals and tourists alike. The open kitchen provides entertainment and activity to watch while you wait for your delicious fusion food, and the location is a great break from the suburban bustle of Sonoma. Farm at the Carneros Inn 4048 Sonoma Hwy. Napa, CA (707) 299-4880  Farm is the high-end restaurant at the Carneros Inn, and from the moment you enter its sleek mod-chic dining room, you know you’re in for a special treat. The menu is small, but offers a diverse range of gourmet dishes, and changes frequently depending on what is in season. For a cosmopolitan dining experience out in the country, Farm can’t be beat. The Fig Café 13690 Arnold Dr. Glen Ellen, CA (707) 938-2130  This is the more casual little sibling to The Girl & the Fig in Sonoma (see below), which is appropriate since it is in the cute little town of Glen Ellen, a few miles north. The menu is a little more moderately priced, and less skewed toward French cuisine than its big sister. The best part, though? No corkage fee. So bring in the bottle you bought that day, and drink up. The Girl & The Fig 110 W. Spain St. Sonoma, CA (707) 938-3634 www.thegirlandthefig.com  Located right on the northwest corner of Sonoma Plaza (across the street from El Dorado Kitchen), The Girl & the Fig is a Sonoma landmark, serving up classic French dishes with down-home hospitality. Try the three-course prix-fixe menu for $32, or order à la carte, but be sure to try an aperitif at the antique bar. Harvest Moon Café 487 First St. West Sonoma, CA (707) 933-8160 www.harvestmoonsonoma.com Calling itself California cuisine with a Mediterranean twist, Harvest Moon Café’s menu changes nightly, so you never know what treat you’re in for until you sit down at a table and peruse the selections. There are always several appetizers and entrees to choose from, though, so don’t worry about not finding something you’ll like. This local favorite on Sonoma Plaza has a humble country-style façade, a tiny interior, and a delightful garden out back to enjoy the delicious, fresh food made by husband and wife team, Nick and Jen Demarest. Maya 101 E. Napa St. Sonoma, CA (707) 935-3500 www.mayarestaurant.com A charming nouvelle-Mexican restaurant on the Plaza, Maya is the place to come when you’re sick of wine and just want a premium shot from their “Temple of Tequila”—a beautiful bar resembling an Aztec pyramid. The playful menu features a mix of Mexican classics and California cuisine, and the brightly painted dining room is festive and fun. Saffron Restaurant 13648 Arnold. Dr. Glen Ellen, CA (707) 938-4844 www.saffronrestaurant.com A tiny spot in the middle of Glen Ellen, Saffron’s candle-lit space is the perfect place for a romantic end to a day of wandering and wine tasting. Picky eaters should beware since the menu changes daily and there are often only two or three entrees to choose from. Then again, both usually sound so good that you might just want to get both. Santé Restaurant at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn 100 Boyes Blvd. Sonoma, CA (707) 938-9000  Santé is the award-winning gourmet restaurant at the Fairmont Mission Inn, and is a culinary destination in its own right. Its menu features beautifully crafted dishes in the best California wine country tradition, and the gorgeous dining room is all colonial style and understated elegance. Even if you’re not a guest at the hotel, it’s worth stopping by for a meal for a true Sonoma experience. SONOMA WINERIES There may not be as many wineries as in Napa, and they may be spread out over all 1500 square miles of the county, but Sonoma’s vineyards produce some of the finest grapes in the country, and its cadre of winemakers is among the best in the world. So take a look at some of our favorites below, and arrange a visit for yourself! WINERIES Arrowood Vineyards 14347 Sonoma Hwy. Glen Ellen, CA (707) 935-2600 www.arrowoodvineyards.com  Just outside Glen Ellen on the Sonoma Highway, Arrowood is a lovely spot on the eastern side of Sonoma Valley with a view to Sonoma Mountain from the winery’s beautiful veranda. It was founded in 1986 by Richard Arrowood and his wife Demers. Richard was the first winemaker at Chateau St. Jean, just down the road, before setting out on his own. Clocking in at 90 minutes and costing $30, the vineyard and cellar tour might be too in-depth for your average winery visit, so instead, you can opt for the 40-minute winery tour ($20) and learn about Arrowood’s philosophy and history. With only 6 guests per tour, it is an intimate and informative experience. After the tour, enjoy a tasting at the New England farmhouse-style tasting room. Be sure to try one of the Chardonnays they are known for. The 2005 Sonoma Chardonnay has a rich palate of almonds and vanilla, along with some honeysuckle, peach and apple. Arrowood was also among the first producers of Viognier in the U.S., and the 2006 Russian River Valley one has a touch of honey, flowers and apricot while remaining light and crisp despite a 14.1% alcohol level! Leave the Cabernet Sauvignon until last, you won’t be disappointed. Arrowood’s is intense and deep with notes of ripe cassis, sandalwood and some strong tannins that will age very well. Artesa Vineyards and Estate 1345 Henry Rd. Napa, CA 94559 (707) 224-1668 www.artesawinery.com There are many excellent reasons to pay a visit to Artesa, one of the closest wineries to San Francisco and a great option for a day trip from there. Firstly, it is an architectural destination since the visitor center is built into an excavated hilltop amid the winery’s Carneros vineyards and uses natural means to heat and cool itself. The winery is also an art center, and sponsors an artist in residence, Gordon Huether, who works in a variety of media including painting, metalwork, light fixtures and glass. His art is displayed all over the winery and provides some great pieces to look at while you sip their wines. Artesa is the American outpost of Spain’s sparkling wine kingpins, the Raventos family, who also own Cordoníu, and they have put on display many of their winemaking artifacts, like ancient wine jugs, centuries-old wooden presses, and even some 19th century poster advertisements for their flagship Cordoníu “cava” or sparkling wine, which was known as the drink of the kings of Spain. Although Artesa originally intended to produce sparkling wines here, thanks to a lack of American appetite for them, they now make mostly still wines with the exception of a single Grand Reserve Sparkling wine that is crisp, clean, delicious, and hand-labeled by a special corps of bottling workers. Carneros is known for its Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, so be sure to try Artesa’s. The Chardonnay is bright, with notes of lemon, apple, pineapple and melon, and a creamy finish. The Pinot Noir, a finicky wine to be sure, is very well structured and tastes of slightly of cherry, chocolate and just a hint of smoke. The Merlot instantly displays its fruit characteristics of raspberry and cherry, but softens on the palate so that you can taste some clove and vanilla before the tannins kick in. The Cabernet is lively with notes of blackberry, some spice, a hint of fennel even, and a soft finish. All in all, the tour and tasting experience at Artesa is one of the most engaging in the valley and should not be missed. Benziger Family Winery 1883 London Ranch Rd. Glen Ellen, CA 95442 (707) 935-3000 www.benziger.com Benziger is one of the best known biodynamic wineries in the world and it takes its environmental practices very seriously. Not only is it certified biodynamic (see related link), but it is also certified organic and sustainable as well thanks to the Benziger family’s commitment to environmental practices. If you have the chance, you should take the biodynamic tram tour they offer several times a day for $15. You will get an overview of the entire vineyard, as well as a few presentations on just what biodynamics are and how Benziger is a pioneer—for instance, you get to see the “insectory” where beneficial insects are bred and nourished to help fight predator species, as well as a talk about the different soil types and microclimates in the vineyard. Plus, it’s just really fun to ride around in a gigantic tractor! The tour also includes a visit to the caves and a discussion about how barrel aging affects wines. Ending up in the lovely little visitor’s center, you can enjoy your wine while perusing books, apparel and other little goodies. Now we know what you’re saying: yippee doo, it’s organic and that’s great, but how does the wine taste? Good. No doubt about it. Try the fragrant Carneros Chardonnay, and you’ll taste notes of pear and apple. The Pinot Noir has a bouquet of blueberry, plum and clove, and is more full-bodied than many other Pinots out there. Their Merlot has signature cassis, oak and cherry flavors, while t  he Cabernet is blended from eight different vineyards to produce a complexity of flavors like chocolate, cherry, currant and creamy vanilla, as well as some strong tannins. Their Tribute Bordeaux Blend is also intense and rich, with a chalky start, velvety notes of berry, plum and licorice, and a soft, earthy finish. Chateau St. Jean 8555 Sonoma Hwy. Kenwood, CA (707) 833-4134 www.chateaustjean.com With an imposing Italianate edifice in the shadow of the Mayacamas Mountains just past Kenwood, Chateau St. Jean is an impressive, beautiful place to visit, and one of the best known wineries in Sonoma. Founded in 1973, it has been a pioneer in California vineyard-designated wines, and produces excellent varietals from plots all over Sonoma, including its famous Cinq Cépages Bordeaux Blend, which became the first Sonoma wine to win Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year Award in 1999. At the winery itself, there are terroir and garden tours twice daily for $15, but you can also just get a tasting for $10. The best part of coming to Chateau St. Jean is that of the 36 wines they produce, about three-quarters of them are available for sale only at the winery, so you can pick up a few bottles of something special depending on what you like. Try the Viognier, with its aromas of orange blossom, nectarine and citrus, before a sip of their crisp, refreshing Fumé Blanc, which hints at honeydew, pear, lemongrass and grapefruit. Of course, you have to try their Chardonnay, with its notes of honey, marmalade, and touch of oak to give it some texture. Be sure to sample the spicy, juicy Malbec for a taste of raspberry and mocha, before moving on to a bright Merlot from the Kenwood vineyard. No tasting at Chateau St. Jean would be complete without trying their famous Cinq Cépages, full of berry flavors, finely tuned tannins and a lovely hint of oak. If you’re feeling peckish after all that wine, Chateau St. Jean’s tasting room also has a little gourmet deli where you can pick up a little picnic box, or grab a sandwich or pastry to enjoy out in the gardens. Domaine Carneros 1240 Duhig Rd. Napa, CA 94559 (707) 257-0101 www.domainecarneros.com  Carneros, with its long growing season and cooling fogs, has an ideal climate for cultivating Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, the two major varietals used to produce champagne. So it is no wonder that the storied French champagne house Taittinger selected it as the location of their American brand, Domaine Carneros. You can’t miss the visitor center perched on a hill right off the Sonoma Highway. It is a replica of the Taittinger Estate (the Chateau de La Marquetterie for your Francophiles out there) in Epernay, France, in all its 18th century gilded opulence. At Domaine Carneros you get two tours in one since they produce not only sparkling wines, but also some excellent still wines thanks to the skills of their renowned winemaker, Eileen Crane, who studied at the Culinary Institute of America before working at Domaine Chandon and then Gloria Ferrer Winery. Over the course of the tour, you learn how the depth and structure of the Chardonnay is combined with the rich fruit of the Pinot Noir to create a delicate, bubbly balance. Be sure to try the signature Brut Cuvée (meaning a dry wine created by gently pressing the best yield grapes), but ask to taste the delicious sparkling rosé as well so you have a fruit-driven wine to compare. Remember, Domaine Carneros also produces some fine Pinot Noirs, so try the new Avant-Garde, which is a young vintage that has aromas of cherry, raspberry and dark chocolate. If you’re lucky, you’ll also get to try the Famous Gate Pinot Noir, which is the best red Domaine Carneros produces and is barrel-aged in such a way as to yield softer tannins so that the fruit, spice and velvety mouth feel of the wine really come through. Since winemaker Crane has a culinary background, Domaine Carneros’ vintages, both sparkling and still, are meant to be drunk with food, so check out the recipes created especially for their wines. Hanzell Vineyards 18596 Lomita Ave. Sonoma, CA 95476 (707) 996-3860 www.hanzell.com  A visit to Hanzell is truly a one-of-a-kind experience. The winery is synonymous with Sonoma winemaking, and was one of the first California wineries to produce high-quality wines after the dark days of Prohibition thanks to a mix of Old-World style and American technology. The land was first planted in 1953 with just six acres—four Chardonnay, two Pinot Noir—by Harry Truman’s Ambassador to Italy, James Zellerbach (the winery gets its name from the combination of Zellerbach’s name with that of his wife, Hana). Zellerbach was the first vintner to use stainless steel fermentation tanks to produce consistent quality wines and to control the winemaking process to an unprecedented degree. Hanzell was also the first winery in the U.S. to use only French oak barrels for the aging process. There are other innovations involving nitrogen and malolactic fermentation, but we won’t go into detail. The bottom line is, Hanzell is a must-see winery for California oenophiles because it pioneered the rebirth and development of California’s wine industry, and you can see that grand history in its cellar, which contains bottles dating back to the first 1957 vintage. Historical significance aside, a visit to Hanzell is just plain fun. Though it now belongs to the deBrye family, the vineyard is still very much a family affair, and you can find several generations of families working there side by side. Drive up the winding mountain road to the spot high in the Mayacamas range where Hanzell is located, and take in the gravity-defying view of Sonoma Valley. Walk out among the vineyards, watch the vines growing at impossibly steep angles, and marvel at the sheer natural beauty of the place. Then retire with your guide to sample the wares. You’ll likely only get to try two wines—a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir—but that’s all you need. The Chardonnay is the color of spun gold, but is bright with flower aromas, notes of apple, honey and a touch of citrus and yeast to lend it radiance. The Pinot Noir, on the other hand, is earthy, herby and complex, with notes of tobacco, espresso and blackberry that only ripen fully on the palate over the course of a tasting. With so many new wineries out there, many of them changing hands several times, Hanzell harkens to a simpler time in Sonoma’s storied past—one that reminds us of why the region produces such fine wines to begin with. CLICK HERE FOR MORE WINERIES Sonoma Activities There’s more than just wine in Sonoma Valley. Here you will find a wonderful mix of outdoor activities and historical sites—granted most of them relate to wine and its history in California, but still. So be sure to spend a few minutes without a wineglass in hand, and enjoy all the natural beauty and cultural heritage of Sonoma. ART DiRosa Preserve 5100 Carneros Hwy. 121 Napa, CA 94559 707-226-5991 www.dirosapreserve.com In the midst of Carneros’ wineries sits this 217-acre art museum-park exhibiting 2200 works of art by over 900 artists. The Preserve is on the site of a former winery that was purchased by art enthusiast Rene diRosa in 1960, and then gifted to the public. Entrance to the Gatehouse Gallery is $3, and there are tours available for $10. You can also walk around the sculpture meadow and take in the grounds. The exhibits include everything from painting and sculpture to ceramics and video by Bay Area artists based around the original collection of Rene di Rosa. HISTORICAL SITES Mission San Francisco Solano 114 East Spain St. Sonoma, CA 95476 (707) 938-9560 http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=479  The last, and northernmost, of California’s twenty-one missions to be built, the Mission San Francisco Solano in Sonoma was established on July 4, 1823. It was here that monks first cultivated grapes in Sonoma Valley, and it was these grapes that provided George Yount with the first vines to grow in neighboring Napa Valley. At its height, the mission included a large complex of buildings and over 10,000 acres of land, with over 900 Native Americans in residence. After California declared independence from Mexico, the main building served as a parish church until falling into disrepair. Today, only five rooms remain from the original structure, and this is only because of restoration work that reclaimed the building in the early 20th century—otherwise there would be nothing left at all. A good destination for adults and children alike, the mission contains interesting (and brief) exhibits about what life was like in Sonoma during the mission’s existence. The Sonoma Barracks 110 East Spain St. Sonoma, CA (707) 939-9420 http://www.militarymuseum.org/SonomaBks.html This is a page right out of California history, where you can see how the troops under General Mariano Vallejo’s rule lived and worked day to day. Vallejo founded Sonoma (or Solano as it was then known) as a bulkhead against an increasing Russian presence in northern California, as well as to secularize the Sonoma Mission—meaning that the Spanish troops split up the lands and properties of the Mission among themselves, with Vallejo taking the lion’s share. It was also here that white Californians sparked the “Bear Flag Incident” in 1846, and declared independence from Mexico with Vallejo’s support. Since it was no longer used to house troops, Vallejo converted the barracks into a winery. After his death, it served a number of municipal purposes before being restored to its former condition by the State of California. Now it houses a little museum outlining Sonoma’s place in California history, the events leading to Californian independence, and showing what life in the settlement was like in the 19th century. General Vallejo’s House W. Spain St. at 3rd St. Sonoma, CA (707) 938-9559 http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=479 A beautiful Victorian house set amid rolling grounds and gardens just outside of the town of Sonoma, General Vallejo’s House is called Lachrymae Montis, or Tears of the Mountain after a natural spring that runs on the land. It is worth a quick visit just to see the little museum devoted to the Vallejo family—Sonoma’s First Family of sorts—and to eyeball the over-the-top furnishings in the house. HIKING AND BIKING Jack London State Park 2400 London Ranch Rd. Glen Ellen, CA 95442 www.jacklondonpark.com  Just outside Glen Ellen, along London Ranch Road, lies Jack London State Park. With gently winding, leafy hiking trails that run alongside dry creek beds, the park is a lovely place to spend an afternoon walking off all the gourmet food and drink you’ve enjoyed in Sonoma. Jack London State Park is especially interesting for several reasons. You can hike to the famous American author’s resting place and see the giant moss-covered stone under which he lies alongside his wife, Charmian. You can also learn about London and his life at the House of Happy Walls Museum (pictured above) his wife built as a monument to him after his death. Most interesting to visit, though, is the “Wolf House,” about a half-mile from the park entrance. Only charred ruins now, the London’s started building Wolf House in 1911, only to see it burn down in a spontaneous combustion fire in 1913 just months before it was completed. London died in 1916 before the couple could try to rebuild it, and so today it remains a melancholy memorial to an unfinished dream. Sugar Loaf Ridge State Park 2605 Adobe Canyon Rd. Kenwood, CA 95452 www.parks.sonoma.net/sugarlf.html Sugar Loaf Ridge State Park is located northeast of Kenwood between Sonoma and Napa in the Mayacamas Mountains. It contains over twenty-one miles of trails through various microclimates, including a redwood forest near Sonoma Creek. Its highest point is Bald Mountain at 2,729 feet, from which you can see all the way down south to San Francisco’s East Bay, west to the Pacific, and even past Mount St. Helena to the Sierra Nevada in the east. Sonoma Valley Cyclery 20799 Broadway (707) 935-3377 www.sonomacyclery.com A great place right near the Lodge at Sonoma to rent a bike for a self-guided tour around Sonoma. The staff can also provide you with maps and suggestions to get the most out of your day. RELATED LINKS: Sonoma Useful Links Other Sonoma Wineries to Visit Phylloxera: What’s bugging winemakers? -Eric Rosen
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 Add to the list of lodgings.... Honor Mansion. We just stayed there for 6 days and it was heaven. Check it out... Posted 08/15/08 06:02PM PDT by Marlene Goss
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