An e-meter's throw away from the Scientology Centre, this simple spot favors fresh, local ingredients prepared well and served beautifully but without fuss. If this review is too enthusiastic, will all you people mob the place and make it more difficult for us to get a seat next time?

The breakfast menu, served all day, includes baked-egg dishes that arrive in a skillet (our order upon the next visit—and we will be back soon—will be the frittata with bacon, spinach, tomato and cheddar), omelets, benedicts and oatmeal. But a drizzly Saturday morning begged for coffee and carbs, so we abandoned the duty we feel to try as many diverse items as possible (the sacrifices we make!) in favor of the brioche French toast and three perfectly sized pancakes with blueberry compote and a dollop of addictive lemon curd. Before all that, the unusual fruit bowl arrived with toast and homemade apple jelly. Lunch options include soups, salads and sandwiches cold and hot. Square One Dining, the color of mustard seed, comprises just a small, simple dining room with an all-glass front and a walled-in patio to the side. We sat at the window, hoping for but not getting a sighting of lil' Suri Holmes-Cruise across the street. —Lonny Pugh