BY LARRY LIPSON >RESTAURANT CRITIC

For more than two decades, a small sushi bar and café called Yamakawa reigned in Toluca Lake.

Founded by master sushi chef Masatoshi Yamakawa in 1986, and gathering a firm and devoted clientele thereafter, it carried on until 2007. Yamakawa died in 1996, but his widow, Keiko, and stepson Larry ran the restaurant efficiently until it sold in July.

Continued as Yamakawa for a while, it finally changed its name, reflecting its new ownership as the new year rolled in, becoming Sushi Kimura-Ya.

With new interior furnishings and a new sushi chef named Nobu, Kimura-Ya appears to be striving to recapture the success the restaurant enjoyed while under the firm and talented hands of chef Yamakawa, followed by chef Takuya Shima.

However, where once three or four sushi chefs could be viewed cutting and arranging orders diligently behind the 10-seat sushi bar, noticeably at a recent visit a single chef could be seen working hard to keep orders moving.

Both his efforts and those of the hidden kitchen staffer behind him indicate that the quality is still consistent with that of the past, even though diners have to be patient when waiting for orders when Kimura-Ya is relatively full.

Basically, you'll find a standard sushi bar menu here. Familiar slices of raw tuna, yellowtail and albacore display freshness, thickness and smooth texture. Sushi rolls like the popular eel and avocado creation ($6.50) are deftly prepared and colorfully presented. Chef Nobu makes decent hand rolls and the house's refreshing seaweed salad ($6) comes forth with the green-, white- and orange-hued tones of gobo roots, daikon radish, onions, cucumber and sprouts.

Also, from the appetizer list, there's a zingy albacore-stuffed jalapeno tidbit ($5) cut into thick little slices that's dipped in tempura batter and quickly deep fried. It's not too spicy hot and possesses good crunch.

Usually called black cod, here titled broiled butterfish ($8.50 as a hot appetizer, $15 as an a la carte entree, and $16 or $18.50 as a dinner item), this oh-so-tasty and tender fish arrives perfectly cooked with a flavorful miso glaze.

At its best: The fare at Kimura-Ya matches and sometimes exceeds the best of neighborhood sushi efforts around town.

Could be better: Initial staffing problems that lead to both long waits and hurried orders could disappear with time.

review>

KIMURA-YA

>Rating:
>Details: 10118 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake. Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. daily except Sunday. (818) 763-8355.
>Cost: Starters from $4.50 to $12, rolls from $4 to $11, dinner entrees and combinations from $9 to $22.50.
>Noteworthy: Back of sushi bar is painted black and has interesting display of sake bottles.