Indian meals don't often conjure visions of fresh, organic ingredients from the farmer's market so much as visions of one's stomach bursting after a sauce-covered 10,000-calorie feast. The modern vision of Tanzore veers more toward the former than the latter.

Located in the old Gaylord space, this casually upscale restaurant quietly offers a lounge area, a dining room and, in the back, a regal private dining room that's as light and bright as the main dining room is richly colorful. The scene so far is more low-key classic than high-maintenance trendy, which is both surprising and welcome considering the Koi-Republic-Lodge neighborhood. Start with a cocktail; the Bombay mojito mixes green tea vodka, mint and gooseberry, and the Karmic Illusion adds Patron Silver to Grand Marnier, fresh lime juice, mango puree and saffron (!). All the expected tandooris and tikkas are accounted for, but most dishes are updated with a twist that usually involves some farmer's market-friendly fare, and portions are not gut-bustingly huge. (Though, as with all decent Indian meals, moderating intake of the warm naan bread is both impossible and necessary.) The wild mushroom and spinach curry, served with basil naan, arrives and quickly vanishes; the Kashmiri lamb curry includes ginger, green chili, cardamom and fennel seeds cooked in a tomato-onion sauce. For those with inhumanly impressive stomachs or hollow legs, we recommend the yogurt panna cotta or the "weightless" (yeah, right) chocolate lava cake. —Lonny Pugh