BY ERIC NOLAND >RESTAURANT CRITIC

Tiny white lights come to life in the branches of the leafy trees overhead. Water gurgles in a discreet fountain. Conversation provides a gentle hum, punctuated by the clink and clatter of wine glasses and cutlery.

The rear patio at Wilshire Restaurant in Santa Monica is a magical dining spot - and quintessentially L.A. Combine this sublime setting with the innovative cooking technique of chef Andrew Kirschner and you get one of the best dining experiences in Los Angeles.

Kirschner and owner Steve Levine are local guys who are partial to farm-fresh ingredients for a California cuisine menu that has Asian undertones. For a salad of heirloom tomatoes and burrata ($15), the tomatoes tasted as if they'd been fully ripened on the vine, and the cheese was rich and creamy. Some of the heirlooms had been peeled, to nice effect. As for a starter of steamed mussels ($12), a red curry sauce imparted plenty of zing to the shellfish.

Far and away the most dramatic entree presentation at Wilshire is whole fried Thai snapper ($29). The fish is served on its belly, and the gaze of its vacant eyes seemed to fix on the two women sitting next to us; they were clearly disconcerted. It's easier to eat than you might expect. Each flank is cross-hatched so that the bite-size cubes may be easily plucked - though you're sure to encounter a few bones. The marvelous preparation style incorporates twin contrasts: crispy skin vs. juicy flesh beneath, salty outer crust vs. the sweetness of a citrus-soy dipping sauce.

One diner at our table ordered a grilled kurobuta pork chop ($27) done medium, and gave it his "touch test" when it arrived. It was so cushy that he was certain he'd find it bloody-rare when he cut into it. Nope. It was perfect, cooked through and juicy. He declared it the most tender pork chop he'd ever ordered medium.

A 5-ounce filet mignon ($30) ordered medium rare, however, arrived medium, but it delivered on flavor, and the accompaniment of a little arugula salad with Parmesan shavings served it well. A side of frites ($6) enhanced the dish all the more. Another tasty entree was lamb leg ($27), served as three medium-rare slices of meat off the bone.

The main courses are of modest size, so it might be advisable to order a side dish for the table - there are 10 from which to choose, priced from $6 to $10.

A starter of white corn soup with a sprinkling of chopped scallops ($13) was sweeter than might be expected, owing no doubt to the ripeness of the corn. At the finish, market-fresh blackberries, raspberries and blueberries sang three-part harmony in the cobbler ($8), backed up by a light pastry crust and creamy, homemade vanilla ice cream. A dry square of chocolate pudding cake ($8) was less impressive.

At its best: Enchanting setting, the best of ingredients, a nice touch by the chef, smooth service. There's a lot to like about this place.

Could be better: Specify a patio table. The interior of the restaurant building is dark and gloomy, which applies to the front bar, too.

Know of a new restaurant in your neighborhood? Contact us at: eric.noland@dailynews.com

(818) 713-3681

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WILSHIRE

>Details: 2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. Open nightly for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. Open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (310) 586-1707, www.wilshirerestaurant.com.

>Cost: Appetizers $12 to $18, salads $10 to $15, main courses $24 to $44, desserts $8 to $9.

>Noteworthy: Wilshire's table service is solid, the wine service exceptional. When you order a wine by the glass, they bring the bottle to the table - a civilized touch - and it's a generous pour. Valet parking is available, but this isn't a particularly busy stretch of Wilshire in the evening, so you might be able to snag a parking spot on the street (they're metered until 6 p.m.). Great prices at happy hour: Monday through Saturday from 5 to 7 p.m.