Schlepping out to North Hills in the midst of rush hour is not my idea of a good time. I almost turned around more than once, but reminded myself that my destination, Casa Don Rolando, was helmed by the very man who catered Jennifer Lopez's most recent wedding (and served as Executive Chef at her Pasadena eatery Madre’s).

And, if Chef Rolando Gonzalez is good enough for Jennifer, surely he must be good enough for me.

I'll admit it: I didn't have high hopes for this place from first glance, either.  But, don't let the seedy strip of town disarm you. Questionable location aside, I was quickly made to feel at home by the endearing staff and modest but warm interior.

I assumed the authentic Cuban fare would taste similar to that at Versailles, but was pleasantly surprised to find it more thoughtfully prepared and artfully presented. The dishes come in ginormous portions, so be sure to arrive on an empty stomach.

Amongst the starters, go for the savory Cuban tamales, the fresh ceviche, and the black beans (with a dollop of cream). My server pushed me to order the Oxtail Stew – something I would normally not touch, but I found it to be decadently rich and tender. Meanwhile, the churrasco came with an appealingly smoky marinade. Both dishes tasted even better mixed in with the hearty congris rice. For dessert, don’t miss the creamy Cuban flan, which is supposedly Ms. Lopez’s fave.

Through out the course of the meal, the only thing that was missing was a good mojito. Unfortunately, the restaurant does not have a liquor license yet. They do, however, have live salsa music every Friday night.

-- Kristin Viola