Why didn't anybody think of this before? At this simple Culver City counter, tasty grilled-cheese variations are served to a casual, hungry crowd who don't mind getting their fingers greasy.

Not far from the Ford's Filling Station hubbub, Meltdown etc. is one of those just-right creations with a killer concept, fresh ingredients, little details done right, and cheese. Lots and lots of cheese. There's not much to it in terms of decor: Just a small order counter, drink cooler and a few tables inside and on the sidewalk. But there's a bottle opener on the wall next to the cooler, and there's a container of extra napkins on top of the trash can outside. And napkins, of course, are important accompaniments to a classic three-cheese (sharp chedder, muenster, fontina), a cheddar, ham and apple butter (which we tried and now dream dirty dreams about), or a turkey melt with brie, arugula and cranberry-horseradish mustard on olive bread. Recently added breakfast options include a smoked samon melt. Owner Ryan Afromsky could've skated by with a lower-rent, fast-food version of the idea, but the extras (we had a side of carrot-dill soup on the day of our first visit) inspire a heaping side portion of goodwill. Just like we had for mom the first time she made us a sandwich.  —Lonny Pugh