Only a few doors away from the now-closed site of one of the Valley's longtime French restaurants (Mon Grenier), a wine and tapas bar and cafe called Vino has opened in Encino.

BY LARRY LIPSON >RESTAURANT CRITIC

Here's a true study in contrasts. It's an interesting comparison of yesterday's formalized dinner service typified by Mon Grenier and the casual nibble-and-sip meal-taking of faddish, contemporary wine-bar eateries like Vino.

It has a narrow configuration and is low-lit with a black-and-red décor theme.

Its changing 12-item menu features most of the familiar tapas-style offerings, probably the best (with red wine) being a trio of lamb chops ($12), which was originally served with bell peppers and potatoes when Vino first opened, more recently plated with a savory spinach, onion and mushroom accompaniment.

A duo of tasty mini-burgers ($8) are about half the usual size, the buns leaving a bit of oily residue if eaten by hand. They have moist, good-tasting ground sirloin patties, caramelized onions, lettuce, cheese and chipotle aioli.

Two fair-sized panko-coated potato croquettes stuffed with chicken ($8) and similarly crusted vegetables (zucchini and eggplant, $8) provided worthy companions to the diminutive lamb chop dish.

Other likely plates include prawns ($10), scallops ($9), petite filet mignon ($14), a chef's salad ($9), fried calamari ($8), roasted almonds and marinated olives ($6), a cheese board ($14) and sea bass ($13), the latter sautéed with peas and asparagus one time, delivered with pasta another.

At its best: Vino gets its fare up within reasonable time at correct temperatures, though bunched together if ordered that way. Often the chef himself brings hot food straight from the kitchen to the table.

Could be better: Additional lower-cost, inventive, appetizer-type items, both hot and cold, even soups, would improve the menu, which currently emphasizes plates with entrée-type ingredients. Parking, though free, is across the boulevard, and because Vino has a middle-of-the-block location, customers have to walk west to the intersection stoplight, wait to cross, then walk back east again. Valet service at a moderate charge might be appreciated.