BY ERIC ROSEN >LA.COM

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The newest addition to the trendy One Group, Chef Todd Mark Miller’s STK fully delivers on its claim to be “not your daddy’s steakhouse” with a diverse, California-skewed menu.

Housed in the former Bridge restaurant on La Cienega, STK is set off that busy avenue by a long walkway that ends in a little outdoor sitting area. But that doesn’t mean it’s off the beaten path.

Quite the opposite—this completely renovated space with a sleek bar, cozy bistro area, and more formal dining room is definitely a place to see and be seen as patrons groove and gulp their food to the beat of the on-duty DJ. All done up in mid-century forms embellished by black-and-white touches (like the white leather banquettes and black crystal light fixtures), STK offers a variety of classic salads, but also more exciting appetizers like the succulent tiger prawns doused in shrimp bisque over a bowl of Rice Krispies (that really do snap, crackle and pop!).

But don’t let the starter options distract you from the main event: the eponymous steak dishes, whose cuts come in three size categories. The options range from a tender 6-ounce filet, to gigantic 26-ounce (that’s over 1.5 pounds!) bone-in New York strip. And don’t skimp on the side sauces, which include the Worcestershire-like STK sauce, and a “blue butter” that literally melts in your mouth.

For less carnivorous diners, there are also several non-steak main courses like the luscious big-eye tuna with porcini potato puree and a mushroom bordelaise. Go crazy and order a few sides too, like the crunchy, block-like parmesan truffle fries, or the trusty mac and cheese.

Desserts are new twists on classics, like the PB&J Sundae whose ice cream scoops are, appropriately, peanut butter and jelly, topped with nutella, grape preserves and a caramelized banana. Like the food entries, the list of sweet signature cocktails and wine is a bit pricey for the offerings, but you’re paying for the atmosphere…and the attitude…and the fact that you can hang out here all night.

--Eric Rosen