BY NATALIE HAUGHTON >LA.COM

STK, a new restaurant on La Cienega Boulevard, simply dazzles. The dimly lit walkway to the entrance is striking with its running water sculptures/fountains, along with a fire pit.

High style is evident in the food as well as the dramatic black-and-white decor, with stylized floral centerpieces and a mix of curved, round and straight tables. Tiny upside-down glass votive-style lights on long cords hang from the dark ceiling like floating stars, making the room sparkle.

Not a traditional steakhouse, this trendy, welcome take on the theme worked like a finely tuned machine on a recent Friday night.

The meal was well-orchestrated and obviously the food came from a competent kitchen. Our server was well-versed in the menu intricacies, and when unable to answer a menu/ingredient query, she was quick to check with the chef and relay the information.

Starters included a blue cheese iceberg ($12) and shrimp "rice krispies" ($15).

A crisp baby iceberg stuffed with Maytag blue cheese, plated upside-down and topped with crispy bacon bits and chunky blue cheese dressing was fresh and delicious.

The shrimp creation, although slightly chewy, was unique and fun. Two intertwined tiger prawns (tails on) arrived in an oval-shaped, white winged bowl atop a mixture that had a texture akin to rice (shrimp chips that had been crushed up in a food processor and deep-fried, we were told).

It came with a small pitcher of shrimp bisque that the server poured over the top - and you could really hear the creation snap, crackle and pop. The unique, showy presentation worked well and tasted excellent, too.

Among the appealing assorted bread choices were small olive, cheese (the favorite) and squaw rolls, along with ramekins of sweet butter and bright green olive oil.

Unlike most steakhouses, the menu here offers prime or choice small, medium or large grilled steaks in various cuts (skirt, London steak, filet medallion, New York Strip, bone-in rib, bone-in filet, porterhouse and bone-in New York), ranging from 6 to 26 ounces and priced from $18 to $75, advantageous for different-size appetites.

One sauce from a selection of eight - Worcestershire, herb béarnaise, blue butter, red wine, STK, lemon mustard, toasted peppercorn or bold STK - comes with the meat.

A small filet medallion (6 ounces; $24) was plated with a little ramekin of béarnaise sauce. The steak was thick, perfectly cooked medium (pink throughout) and wonderfully tender. The béarnaise sauce tasted great but could have used a little herb garnish on top for a more attractive presentation.

The prime skirt steak (12 ounces; $30) from the medium listing, ordered with a red wine sauce, was a long, 2-inch-wide (folded over) meat piece. It was amazingly tender and a standout with its marvelous flavor.

While steak is the main attraction here, there are plenty of other entrée selections, among them big eye tuna, snapper, Maine lobster, duck breast, roasted half chicken, roasted lamb porterhouse and beef short ribs.

For an innovative side, the Parmesan truffle fries ($8), one of the restaurant's signature creations, are a must. Two perfect stacks came piled like a puzzle on a dark-colored plate. The thicker-than-normal square-cut fries were rich, filling and laden with out-of-sight flavor from the truffle oil and Parmesan cheese. Definitely an item you'll want to share.

Another excellent choice, roasted cauliflower ($8) florets with pearl onions, was tangy and appealing, with a sprinkling of vinegar. Other sides range from mac and cheese to sweet corn pudding and creamed spinach.

Dessert selections were rather limited and not very inventive - milk and cookies, strawberry shortcake, PB&J sundae (with Nutella) and a selection of sorbets.

The most tempting was the warm peanut butter cup ($10) with a caramelized banana. It turned out to be similar to a toned-down individual flourless chocolate cake with peanut butter oozing from the bottom. Dressed with vanilla whipped cream and topped with chopped, caramelized popcorn pieces, it was a fitting finale to a delightful meal.

At its best: A well-orchestrated, terrific meal with innovative twists that appeared like clockwork but was never rushed. Atmosphere is lively, in a beautifully designed space with a competent kitchen and excellent service.

Could be better: Music, overbearing at times, could have been more subtle. More innovative desserts.

Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692

natalie.haughton@dailynews.com