Stefano Ongaro's distinguished career began at Valentino when, after a 10-year career as a baseball player in Italy, he moved to Los Angeles, knocked on the door and asked for a job. Fourteen years later, he was a captain and maitre d', and went on to Enoteca Drago and Il Grano before opening the acclaimed new Melrose restaurant All' Angelo. —Lonny Pugh

Can you explain to me the meaning behind the name of the restaurant?
I called the restaurant after my father, whose name is Angelo. The fact that we are living in Los Angeles, the city of angels, helped. And my partner is Pierro Angelo Girardello. I was surrounded by Angelos. All' Angelo means "to the angel."

How did you and chef Mirko Paderno come together?
We used to work together at Valentino. I was the maitre d' and he was the sous chef. We always dreamed of doing something together.

I hear you were very involved in all the details, from the selection of the olive oils to the leather on the chairs.
I think personally that we are imposed with some sort of trendiness in restaurants in this city. Everyone is paying attention to what the trend is. I need warmth. I need a comfortable place to be in. The chairs that I chose...I sat in every chair in the showroom for 20 minutes. I brought a book with me. And I chose the one that gave me the proper back support, the proper lumbar support, and complemented the color of the walls, woods and carpet.

To read Ongaro's take on other local restaurants, click here.