You don't have to be Julia Roberts to eat at this renovated restaurant and lounge inside the Beverly Wilshire (remember Pretty Woman?). But being well-coiffed and -dressed helps: This is the intersection of Wilshire Boulevard and Rodeo Drive, after all.

The view of that intersection makes a seat outside or near the ceiling-to-floor windows one of our favorite people-watching spots in town. Transformed from the simple Lobby Lounge, the revamped dining space is bright and comfortable, radiating privilege thanks to the elderly moneyed couples and European families that co-mingle with, well, Usher. The focused menu spans the globe with dishes like spicy tuna tartare with sake mignonette, seared scallops and crispy sweetbreads, and gorgeous steak frites, which is really a two-inch thick filet with hearty hand-cut fries stacked on the plate. Even the burger—served with foie gras mousse, truffle butter and crispy onion rings—is fancy. (Desserts are more playful: Oh, how the grandmas coo when the next table orders a set of miniature ice-cream cones!) The $185 Baccaratini is served in a Baccarat crystal glass that goes home with the person who orders it; a bottled-water menu describes subtle nuances between various still and sparkling brands. What's next, a soda sommelier? —Lesley Balla