Abode Restaurant & Lounge reveals itself gradually, from the hidden entrance to the sophisticated menu. The chef is one to watch, and by "watch" we mean "gorge from."

Stand out front on the sidewalk for a bit, and you'll see a few confused people milling about: Okay, there's Tengu, there's the Abode menu on a pedestal, but wait, where is the restaurant? Answer: Through the gate at the back of the courtyard and into the charming enclave with lights strung above. There's no ocean view here or inside, obviously, but the space is well designed and busy without being overbearing. (Servers also seem selected for their warmth rather than their headshots.) The prices are extravagant but not unreasonable; chef Dominique Crenn has some interesting, intricate dishes often emphasizing seasonal ingredients. To start, we sampled a tasting of oysters four ways (one was in a Bloody Mary, one was fried) and a refreshing plate with poached Asian pears, almonds, prosciutto and a jalapeno-tangerine vinaigrette. Entrees when we visited included halibut, lamb two ways, pork osso buco (slow-cooked in cider for five hours, said the menu) and caramelized black cod with "red rice balls," hearts of palm, and a carrot-sea urchin emulsion. Ah, but dessert: The "study of chocolate" presents a sampling of hot cocoa, mousse, a chocolate egg (like a souffle inside an eggshell; the former should be eaten, the latter should not) and more. Another option mixed slices of citrus fruits with vanilla yogurt mousse and a refreshing creme fraiche sorbet. Translation: Dessert is mandatory. —Lonny Pugh