Everyone basks in a pink glow at Ketchup, the tomato-strewn Sunset Strip restaurant filled with kitschy, expensive comfort food.

This being a restaurant from the Dolce Group (Dolce, Geisha House, Les Deux), the crowd and staff don't need the flattering light to look attractive: These restaurants attract a done-up demographic that doesn't mind paying $9 for French fries if they get to look at each other for a few hours. Still, there's a certain charm to the white walls, white floors and white tables, punctuated by rows of tomato-shaped lights, red stems on the martini glasses, and actual tomatoes in glass boxes on the tables. The waiters also have splotches on the shoulders of their uniforms, as if they'd just been heckled offstage after telling a bad joke. To begin, appetizers include Kobe sliders or a parmesan-garlic onion-ring tower. They're priced like entrees ($17 and $11, respectively), though in fairness they are portioned like entrees as well; we were full by the time our actual entrees—sloppy joes, bbq baby pork ribs—showed up. Many options come with five varieties of the titular condiment, and drinks mix the high (Ketel Citron) and the low (Fruit Punch Kool Aid) with dentist-unfriendly aplomb. Note to Dolce Group: You win this time, but you'll lose us with Relish or (shudder) Mayo. —Lonny Pugh