In an otherwise nondescript brick building on the Sunset Strip, space has been carved from the raucous nighspot one known as Barfly for the more upscale—but certainly lounge-y and cocktail-friendly—One Restaurant, an offshoot of the popular location in New York City's Meatpacking District.

The waitress will tell you the plates are meant to be shareable, and she's mostly right, though there are some dishes we'd say demand one of the tables of regular dining height, not the plethora of lower lounge tables. Under the menu's "raw/chilled" section is a striking tenderloin carpaccio with figs and a nice extra-salty-crunch, "organic/free range" includes a tasty Sonoma quail on a citrus risotto with zucchini and blue-cheese butter, and under "wet/wild" are the addictive Szechuan-seared scallops with potato-parsnip pancake, caramelized green apple, and a bit of dill creme fraiche that brings it all together. More comfort food-ish options include pizzas, mini-cheeseburgers, mini-reubens and mini-grilled cheeses. The prices are not at all mini, but the quality of the food from former Vibrato chef Christoper Ennis is high, especially for such a nightlife-y scene with well-known DJs, all those low tables, and a crowd packed in so tightly that there's really no choice but to get to know the neighbors. Wines, champagnes, a Green MarTEAni and/or the Sunburn Relief potion, with a subtle hint of aloe water, help lubricate windpipes as voices must be raised in conjunction with the music. Surrounding the roar is a nicely belled-and-whistled space with dark woods, some anachronistic paintings, and lanterned branches reaching over the bar, calling to mind other high-end but rustic schemes at The Woods, Parc and Charcoal. —Lonny Pugh