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(Rico Mandel)
Guns, Game Meats, and Gourmet Grub at the Saddle Peak Lodge.
Housed in a historical timber structure that has been used as a hunting lodge (take a look at the antique guns and stuffed game trophies that line the walls), a Pony Express stop, and even a bordello, the Saddle Peak Lodge has long been one of L.A.'s landmark food destinations. Now that dynamic 26-year-old Adam Horton is at the helm as executive chef, the restaurant is coming back to life with a fantastic new menu.
Appetizers like the tartare of prime beef tenderloin with medjool dates, sun-dried tomatoes, arugula, quince mustard, toast and quail egg; or the wild Fijian white tuna sashimi with compressed winter melon, cilantro, Maine peeky toe crab, pink grapefruit and grapefruit soy vinaigrette present interesting, complex combinations to start.
The entrees are no less interesting, and include striped bass with saffron potatoes, cauliflower quinoa, garlic chips, clams, calamari, mussels, cockles and harissa-scented soffrito broth; and mesquite-grilled filet mignon with brown butter pommes puree, wild mushrooms, sautéed spinach and glazed heirloom carrots. The real draw, though, is the Game Specialties menu, with its signature New Zealand elk tenderloin with parsnip mousselin, parsnip chips, sweet potato gnocchi and ragout of braised bacon and cherries. The dish is smoky yet delicate.
There is also Nebraska buffalo, grilled ostrich tenderloin, and Texas antelope with sherry
Chef Adam Horton (Rico Mandel)
The wine menu, which is almost exclusively Californian, also contains some of the best wines from the state. One final tip: when the weather is nice, try to reserve a table outside on the lantern-lit terrace near the waterfall.
Address: 419 Cold Canyon Rd.
Cross Street: Piuma Rd.
Neighborhood: Calabasas
Phone: (818) 222-3888
Hours: Weds-Sun Noon-10pm, Tues Noon-5pm
Type: Steakhouse
Price: $$
