RESTAURANTS | REVIEWS
Silver Lake Gets Another 'Reservoir'
After An Initial Drought, Reservoir Restaurant Finally Finds Its Level
08/24/2009 04:28:33 PM PDT
Reservoir (Photo by Gary Friedman Los Angeles Times
1700 Silver Lake Blvd.
Cross Street: Effie St.
Neighborhood: Silver Lake
Phone: (323) 662-8665
Hours: Tues.-Sat., 6PM-10:30PM;
Housed in the
former Netty's location, Reservoir, with its bungalow-like structure and haphazardly leveled handmade tables, makes for a
cozy atmosphere. Though it opened to a hailstorm of criticism due to high expectations for Chef Gloria Felix (who trained at such local foodie havens as Lucques, A.O.C., Jar and Grace, followed by a stint as executive chef at Blair's), the climate has finally settled. Felix has rediscovered her culinary confidence and is now turning out straightforward, contemporary dishes with imaginative flavor profiles. Example? The panko-fried shrimp in a jicama taco with spicy aioli and fennel slaw.
For starters, try the sweet corn ravioli with brown butter sage over a bed of sweet summer corn and mushrooms or the thick-cut beef carpaccio drizzled with bright green chimichurri. There are small pizzas to share, like one with chorizo, quince and asiago cheese. They're worth trying thanks to Felix's certification in Verace Pizza Napoletana.
For a main course, you mix and match, first picking a protein like the braised beef short ribs with pomegranate reduction, the mouthwatering filet mignon pan seared with gorgonzola port sauce, or the crispy-skinned black cod with miso glaze that melts in your mouth. Then you choose one of the "setups" to accompany it. These include summer corn succotash with fresh English peas, mascarpone and pasilla chili; rich fregula sarda pasta with roasted heirloom tomatoes and baby organic squash; or the earthy farro with grilled asparagus, broccoli rabe, currants, toasted pine nuts and roasted shallots. That's a lot of choices, so trust your server's recommendations.
Standouts for dessert were the apple cobbler with blueberries and vanilla ice cream, ice cream sliders with puff pastry fries, and the milk chocolate anise pot de crème. The limited wine list could use some help, but you should be able to find something you like from the international mix.