Vinoteque
The mussels at Vinoteque, on Melrose. (Eric Rosen)
When the original Vinoteque closed in Culver City last year after failing to secure a permanent wine and beer permit, everyone expected that to be the end of the short-lived wine bar. So it was with no small surprise that the foodie community found out about the opening of its new incarnation on Melrose last month.

Unlike the previous location, this one is a fully functional lounge and restaurant, so you can get just a sippy cup or a full-on repast to enjoy in the slick indoor dining area bounded on one side by a wine rack, or out on the lovely heated patio under the stars.

To accompany the 300-bottle wine list, there are small bites like the selections of charcuterie and oysters (not together), as well as six salads like the one with juicy fried green tomatoes, herb goat cheese and smoked tomato vinaigrette.

There is also a menu of "European size" plates that range from rosemary-parmesan fries, to bone marrow crostini, to chile rellenos with jalapeno jack cheese and papaya salad. The Pei mussels in a cava broth with saffron garlic aioli taste very fresh and light, and are perfect for sharing.

Then again, if all that food merely piques your appetite, there are bigger plates like halibut with roasted beets and horseradish ice cream, the duck breast with squash flan, and incredibly dark braised short ribs with parsley purée, carrots and cippolinis. The waitstaff assured us that dessert is worth it, with sweet-savory choices like chocolate caramel cremoso with olive oil ice cream and maldon salt.

The real attraction, of course, is the wine list. Though it does have some interesting choices (who doesn't like a good Slovenian wine?) the by-the glass choices could be better. However, you can order any bottle with a two-glass minimum, and there are nightly glass specials to enjoy, so we say, "Cheers!"

Address: 7469 Melrose Ave.
Cross Street: N. Gardner St.
Neighborhood: West Hollywood
Phone: (310) 860-6060
Hours: Tues-Thurs and Sun 6:00pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 6:00pm-1:00am
Type: Continental, Californian, Wine bar
Price: $$