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The Farmhouse Inn (Eric Rosen)
However, unlike its neighbors to the south and west (ahem, Napa!), the Russian River Valley is still something of a bargain for wine travelers, and hasn't developed the big business attitude of other high-end destinations. Drinkers who enjoy Rhone varietals and Zinfandel will also find a veritable plethora of palate pleasing potential in this vast region, so time to get drinking!
LAY OF THE LAND
What most people call the Russian River Valley is actually broken down into several distinct appellations, and Healdsburg lies at the center of them all. There is, of course, the Russian River Valley itself, which surrounds the town and includes the sub-appellation of Chalk Hill , then Dry Creek Valley also encompasses the warm and sunny Rockpile region to the northwest, while the Alexander Valley lies to the north.
You can look at an Overview Map here
The Diavola (Eric Rosen)
Russian River Valley: A huge appellation broken down into several smaller ones, but initially made famous for its cooler climate grapes: finely textured Pinot Noirs, and robust but crisply acidic Chardonnays, though the Zinfandels and Rhone varietals coming from here are becoming equally well known.
Chalk Hill: Part of the RRV, it derives its name from the chalky soils, which are perfect for growing traditional white and red varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dry Creek: Known for food-friendly wines like Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel, as well as Cabernet and Merlot. The rocky soils produce concentrated, fruit-forward wines with a kick. You can also find some great Rhone and Cal-Ital varietals here.
Rockpile: Part of Dry Creek (thought its own AVA now), this appellation is probably the warmest in northern Sonoma, and produces some fantastic Syrahs in addition to the usual RRV varietals.
Alexander Valley: Named after 19th-century pioneer Cyrus Alexander, the gravelly soils of this region produce powerful Cabernet Sauvignons, and some of the most famous (and spiciest) Zinfandel's in the country.
DRINKING AND DOZING
Healdsburg and the surrounding area present the most lodging options, with choices ranging from affordable comfort to five-star luxury. On the B&B side of things, you can't beat the homey Calderwood
The Dry Creek Kitchen Boys of Russian River Valley (Eric Rosen)
Closer to the town center, you'll find the imposing Le Mars luxury hotel, which also houses the Michelin-starred Cyrus restaurant, and then the upscale modern (and pricey) Hotel Healdsburg, which has a secluded spa and private pool area right off the town square.
A good ways from Healdsburg in the tiny hamlet of Forestville, you'll find the secluded Farmhouse Inn, surrounded by forest. The former seasonal farm housing buildings have been converted into a full-service luxury inn with rooms and suites in a variety of price points (all decorated in a rustic-chic style, though), and a Michelin-starred restaurant whose food will be a highlight of your trip.
Wine: The Real Reason To Come
Of course, you didn't come all the way to Healdsburg just to enjoy the accommodations, so be sure to schedule plenty of time to travel the tasting rooms of the area. We enjoyed a diverse sampling of the region's wines on a recent trip in tasting rooms like the following.
For some delicate Pinot Noirs and brassy Zinfandels, head on over to the relatively young Benovia Winery in the western Russian River Valley, and they might even put you to work sorting grapes. Then hit Carol Shelton Wines in an unassuming industrial complex closer to Santa Rosa to try some dark and inky Zinfandels including one made from old vine grapes grown organically in Cucamonga Valley, as well as some chocolatey dessert wines.
Up in Dry Creek, the old vine Zinfandels at Zichichi Family Vineyard taste of summer berries, and the views from the terrace are breathtaking. Just down the road at Unti Vineyards, winemaking is also a family business, where father and son George and Mick produce phenomenal Old World-style blends with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, as well as some finely acidic Zinfandels.
In Geyserville, the place to taste is Terroirs Artisan Wines, where you can peruse the artisan gifts and art gallery while sampling many of the dozens of different wines that co-owner Kerry Damskey helps create for various wineries in the area. Another tasting room-gallery hybrid back in Healdsburg is Bion Rice's Artiste Winery and Tasting Studio, where you can paint your own canvas as you nibble on gourmet cheeses and taste the gregarious Santa Barbara native's blends like the Alsatian-style white wine with Malvasia Bianca, Orange Muscat, Gewurtztraminer and Chardonnay.
Then just around the corner is the tasting room, or "lounge," of Erica and Scott Lindstrom-Dake's Thumbprint Cellars, whose good-for-aging Bordeaux-style blends bare naughty names like Threesome and Climax.
On the other side of Healdsburg, you'll find the tasting room for Longboard Vineyards where winemaker (and surfing enthusiast) Oded Shakked makes spicy, structured Syrahs and berrylicious Cabernet Sauvignons.
For a last stop, try the crisp Chardonnays and herby Pinots at C. Donatiello, just a few minutes outside of town, and be sure to wander the "affinity gardens" whose plants are supposed to be the tasting notes of the mark's various wines, and where you can catch outdoor concerts in summer.
Filling up the Tank
Where there's wine, there's often good food. After all, people as attuned to the earth and its bounty as winemakers-who are also producing a high-end product meant to accompany fine foods-know their gourmet gastronomy.
For a quick breakfast, head to everyone's favorite spot, Costeaux French Bakery, which was also just awarded Modern Baking Magazine's Retail Bakery of the Year award. You can get a variety of fresh-baked French treats, as well as a full American breakfast.
Lunch requires a little more fortification, so hit the hearty American menu at the Healdsburg Bar and Grill (owned by the same folks as Cyrus), and be sure to get the truffle oil-parmigiano reggiano fries to munch out on the patio. For a more delicate dining experience, have lunch in the leafy courtyard of BarnDiva, and enjoy lighter fare like a smoked salmon salad with heirloom tomatoes and dill crème fraiche, or a gorgeous tuna niçoise salad to accompany a glass of sparkling wine (or a naughty midday specialty cocktail like the one with gin, lavender and lemon oil).
When you've had enough wine and just need a beer, Bear Republic, the brewing company and restaurant, is the order of the day, while those looking for the jumpingest joint in town head to Scopa for their simple menu of Italian-inspired dishes like fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with cheese, or homemade rigatoni with wild boar sausage and eggplant.
Foodie fanboys flock to Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen (part of the Hotel Healdsburg) for market-fresh fare made from that day's famer's market. In fact, if you're lucky, you can catch the boys from the kitchen trucking around a Red Flyer wagon of produce at the morning market while deciding what to prepare that day.
Up in the one-block town of Geyserville, the two best restaurants are siblings. The first is a great spot for lunch or a casual dinner called Diavola. The enormous and flavorful homemade wood-fired pizzas with bubbly cheese and thin crusts are prepared at the back of the restaurant right in view, the salads are fresh and interesting (roasted Caesar with shrimp!), and the homemade charcuterie plate is unrivaled in the area. Just down the block is the only slightly more formal (this is NorCal, after all) Santi, serving upscale Italian classics.
Walking off the Buzz
After you've eaten and drunk your fill, you'll want to take a constitutional stroll around the historic center of Healdsburg (it's over 150 years old) to work off the calories or to pack in a few more at the Powell's Sweet Shoppe, where you can find not only gelato and gourmet candies, but also joke presents and every Pez dispenser head imaginable.
Lounge for a moment in the nearby Ralph Lauren Home Collection store on the square before perusing the shelves at Copperfield's Books, or picking up a pick-me-up picnic lunch of high-end goodies at the 120-year-old Oakville Grocery. Make sure to bring a waterproof cooler if you plan to take your finds with you for a kayaking trip on the namesake Russian River with River's Edge Kayak and Canoe Trips.
Then again, there's our favorite remedy for a hangover, a nice strong cup of coffee, which you can get at the world-famous Flying Goat. That should get you fixed up for another day of drinking
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For more information on everything under the sun in the Russian River Valley, visit the web site for Wine Road of Northern Sonoma County. There you'll find links to wineries, hotels, restaurants, maps, events listings, and activities.
