The economic climate hasn't changed much in the past few months, but changing your personal zone is more affordable these days if you want to get to Hawaii -- specifically, Maui.

And while the weather in Wailea is only mildly different than the best winter days in LA, the appeal lies in the utterly laid back nature of the place.  There's plenty of sweet island "-ness" to go around, and also plenty of decreased hotel rates spilling into 2010.

Wailea may seem a bit like visiting Beverly Hills (if all you're looking for is high-end shopping, manicured medians, golf courses and more golf courses), but it also has a gorgeous, lapping-waves, destination beach and tiers of affordability just below the surface.



HOMEBASE: Hotel Wailea

Picking a home base of operation on any trip is critical to pulling off a memorable vacation. For the foray into northwest Maui we chose Hotel Wailea -- at present, a good mix of luxury and affordability. (Most of the competition is Marriott, Fairmont, Aston and other high-enders.)

The property is situated on a hill overlooking Wailea Beach and the little snorkeling-boat magnet, Molokini islet. The
Photo by Jason Middleton for LA.com
vista is nails, especially at dawn and dusk. Facing west, the sun rises behind your suite in the morning, creating a gentle glow (and easy way to sip your coffee) while Maui wakes up. The suites are clustered in a four-units-per-bungalow format, minimizing noise or neighborly interruptions. Hawaiian sunsets? Forgetaboutit (incredible!).

Now, the hotel's not on the beach. Beach access is easy enough, with public access very close. Hotel Wailea also has in-kind access to Grand Wailea's beaches and spas. Just show your room key -- you can even book it to your room.

Another cool factor is the arrangement of rooms. First, they're all suites, with a great room consisting of a kitchenette and dining/living area that leads to the balcony's glass doors -- shotgun style. Facing the flat-screen television is a fold-out couch (uncommonly comfortable, too).

Just off that space is the bedroom, separated by sliding louvered doors. Another TV, ocean-view window and exquisite bed -- replete with a bumper crop of pillows -- are in there.

The tiled bathing area is open-format, with a wide shower and adjacent soaking tub. Just past that, the mirrored counter and lavatory (separate door).

There's a gourmet Italian restaurant on the grounds (it even wins awards), called Capische, for when you aren't dining in. Great wine list and a Scottish chef that just might put a wee nip on your tab, if you like.

For all the amenities afforded guests, the hotel is affordable. Pair the in-room cooker with the nearby Safeway and you can save serious food cash. Bunk with friends eat in for a couple meals a day and, voila, you can take home that hand-shaped surfboard you saw back in town.



DAY TRIP: Wailuku

Looking for a bit of local flare, we headed to Wailuku b/c it combines non-touristy merchants and easy access to some incredible natural areas. None of that "8 T-shirts for only $1!" stuff here.

Even the
Photo by Jason Middleton for LA.com
tourist areas feel real. There's a chill coffee shop (with excellent quiche) called Cafe Marc Aurel, for instance. Other cafes and memento shops are there, too. Even a taco stand for those of you missing your LA street meat. (Have the fresh fish fare.)

First Fridays are a great way to see Wailuku at its best, as all the merchants and eateries throw a big block party so everyone can 'talk story.' Live music, fashion shows ... just feels more real than, say, a Beatles cover band at a 5-star resort.

If you really want to explore true Hawaii/Maui culture, a must-see spot is Native Intelligence. The owners have dedicated their lives, literally, to understanding, interpreting and practicing the ancient ways -- and educating those with interest in all aspects of traditional Hawaiian culture. You can do as deep a dive as you like here -- create your own feathered kahili or just buy native soaps as gifts.

At the head of North Market Street is Maui Thing. This shop would fit in well at Unique Los Angeles, but would probably prosper as a Melrose Avenue store front. Local designers have created urbo-hip (yet somehow island-casual) lines for men, women and infant. The octopus "Thingy" logo is distinctive, but not overbearing, on the understated fashions. You'll notice tourists and locals alike sporting their good taste.

The nearby National Parks are nothing short of incredible -- as much for their lore as their photographic vistas.

If you take the road just above Main Street to the top you'll pass into Iao Valley State Park -- 'Supreme Light.'
Continue the climb and the payoff is no less than imposing, complete with rainforest hikes, waterfalls, mist-covered spires and even samples of historic tribal cultural staples like cooking areas, thatch work and candlenut trees.

The valley's legends are also an amazing prism through which to view Hawaiian culture.



OFF THE PATH: Local Dining

Locals dig every portion of the portions at Tasty Crust. After the initial "how the hell did you wander in here" looks, people turn and tuck back into their pancakes. And it really drives home the legendary status Spam has in Hawaii. Delicious setting and delicious, fattening food.

A distinctive, pink-painted local watering hole (with killer Spam dishes and Phillipino meals, too) is Tiffany's Bar & Grill. Plenty of room for lunching in the booths or for sitting at the bar, it's someplace you won't forget. If you're into daylight drinking and chatty service, though, you're better off checking email on your mobile. (Don't you judge!)